11月4日、今日は夕方に大将軍八神社（だいしょうぐんはちじんじゃ）に行ってきました。大将軍八神社は京都市上京区にある神社で、古くから方位を守護する神として信仰されてきました。近くには、学問の神様で知られる北野天満宮もあります。

この神社では、毎年5月と11月に宝物館である方徳殿（ほうとくでん）が特別公開されます。そこでは、平安時代から鎌倉時代に作られた80体の木造の大将軍神像群を拝観することができます。今回は、まさにその特別公開を目当てに訪れました。

普段ならバスで行くところですが、涼しい季節ということもあり、自転車で向かいました。拝観料は大人1人500円。社務所で支払いを済ませ、境内奥の方徳殿へ進みます。

方徳殿の1階は広間のような空間で、80体の大将軍神像が立体星曼荼羅（りったいほしまんだら）のように安置されています。立体星曼荼羅とは、密教や陰陽道の宇宙観を表す「星曼荼羅」を、星を司る神像を並べて立体的に表現したもの。80体もの神像がずらりと並ぶ光景は圧巻で、それぞれの像の表情も実に多彩。静かな空間の中で、ひとつひとつ見入ってしまいました。

拝観を終えたあとは、近くの粟餅所 澤屋に立ち寄り、名物の粟餅をいただいて帰宅。心も胃袋も満たされる、秋の夕暮れ散歩となりました。それにしてもお饅頭、おいしかったなぁ。


Visiting the Hōtokuden Hall at Daishōgun Hachiman Shrine — A Stunning Display of 80 Guardian Deities in a Three-Dimensional Star Mandala

On November 4, I visited Daishōgun Hachiman Shrine in the evening. Located in Kyoto’s Kamigyō Ward, this shrine has long been revered as a guardian of the directions and is associated with Onmyōdō, Japan’s ancient yin-yang cosmology. The famous Kitano Tenmangū Shrine, dedicated to the deity of learning, is also nearby.

The shrine’s Hōtokuden Hall, which serves as its treasure house, is open to the public only twice a year—in May and November. During this special exhibition, visitors can view 80 wooden statues of the Daishōgun deity, crafted between the Heian and Kamakura periods. This limited opening was the main reason for my visit today.

Normally, I would take the bus, but since the weather was cool and pleasant, I decided to go by bicycle. The admission fee was 500 yen, which I paid at the shrine office before heading toward the Hōtokuden at the back of the grounds.

The first floor of the Hōtokuden is a spacious hall where the 80 statues are arranged in what’s known as a three-dimensional star mandala (rittai hoshi mandara). This form visually represents the cosmic order of esoteric Buddhism and Onmyōdō by arranging the star deities in a spatial mandala. Standing before this array of figures was breathtaking—the expressions on each statue were distinct and full of character. In the quiet of the hall, I found myself gazing at each one in fascination.

After finishing my visit, I stopped by Awaya, a well-known local sweets shop nearby, to enjoy their specialty awa-mochi (millet rice cakes) before heading home. It was the perfect way to end a peaceful autumn evening walk—both my heart and stomach were completely satisfied. And I have to say, those mochi were absolutely delicious.